Do you know anything about her? And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. I ask because our access to Neapolitan tailors in Los Angeles is limited but I wanted something I could wear in summer similar to the way youve been wearing your charcoal G+H linen suit. He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. No worries Ravi. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. Can anything be done to rectify the situation. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. Dear Simon, This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. Couldnt have been more pleased with it! Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. So essentially the questions are: Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). Thanks. Not a toile. Thanks!! I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. Im sure you have more ideas for content than you can possibly cover, so just a couple of suggestions! Hi Simon. After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). I am happy to share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is complete, if it is helpful? I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. Another question Simon. More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. Dear Simon, Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 Great service and advice. . Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. thanks! Like this article? Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. Very happy with her. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. Perhaps a little collection of posts around the issue would be good. Great article . Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? How would you compare them to Tim Everest or C&D for MTM in terms of quality and value? Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. This is the process by which my suit was also made. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. Congrats on the blog. Really great blog. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. Thanks for advice. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. Outstanding blog, Simon. Yes I would. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. If Im not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. Thanks for this Simon. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. shoes, shirts, etc.)? My experience not so good. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? We wanted to do things the right way, Suresh continues. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? Do you see any difference between Sian and John in terms of their eye and pattern and fitting quality (from what Ive read on the website, Sian seems to have a more modern style compared to John)? People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. And in your opinion would a soft jacket from W&S be suitable to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans? I mean look how they photographed those models. Hi Simon. It seems to have a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military? The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Hi Salvatore, I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? Thats really interesting to hear. Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. The British firm combines several Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. . Simon, If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. Id still call them an English tailor But its hard to say Id say buy whichever of the two you can stretch to. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. What am I missing? I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. 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