This makes it noticeably more difficult to break in than calfskin and unless youre considering a shell cordovan belt, watch strap or leather wallet, youre gonna feel it. 2023 Ashland Leather. Lovely. Thanks for your response. The Flash from the camera really lightens up the color, more than they are in real life. Simon, I have approx. Given the price of shell cordovan shoes, and the issues with water uncoated/untreated, Im not sure I am gong to rush to get a pair.That said, many shoe aficionados love the materialI remain intrigued Which tongue pads have you found to be effective? We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster. With a change of temperatures these waxes migrate back to the surface.. Interesting article Simon. Sam: Its due to the material sort of rubbing against itself when creasing, which breaks the surface of the shell. A small amount of cream every few weeks can help soften the leather, and feed it, but dont use too much or youll get white marks in the creases. Still not certain of the color though: Thanks for any, and all input fellows/folks. I havent found any to be perfect to be honest, but these from Skolyx are probably the best, particularly if you cut them down (they are quite big) if needed. If youre the kind of guy who needs the best of the best and exclusive goods, shell cordovan is a rare product. Many thanks again in advance for your clarification. You make a very good case of cordovan loafers with dark denim . My Alden Norwegian bluchers feel substantially heavier than, say, calf Dovers from Edward Green. But, Im not sure that Id pay $800+ for a new pair. If you want another recommendation, look at the handful that Crocketts have in cordovan. They looked a lot better! It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). Ah well, True. easily my fav shoes for the summers. Shell Cordovan is a very specific type of leather that comes from the shell membrane of a horse butt. Anthony Jones: As long as you are aware of the cons, but still think the pros weigh over, give it a try. See comments above on availability in the UK Steven. Im afraid not, no. Hard to tell from the image, but yes I would have thought there would be more black/purple in there. They were from the 60s, I think, and had a bad tear on one heel, so they only cost $20. Its something I will look at correcting at some point, perhaps by stretching them a little. General wisdom among Alden fans dictates that the Aberdeen fits true to (Brannock) size, and the Barrie is roomier all around, and can be worn a half size smaller. Shell cordovan, that most magical of leathers derived from a horses hindquarters, is also one that stands to benefit most from regular care. Carmina uses JR Redenbach oak bark tanned soles, which are considered some of the finest, comparable to Bakers, and used in Edward Greens shoes. Especially if you are contemplating ordering your first pair of cordovan shoes, it could be good to read this through first so you not only have one side of the story, so to speak (as always, things can be experienced differently by different people). These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. The second is that I was directly told that because the leather is thicker, they make your feet sweat more, especially if you already have that tendency. But Ill leave those for another post, or indeed the comment discussion below. When looking at potential alternatives to No.8 that are UK based, do you have a view on EGs nightshade and burgundy options? Alden seem to have a large love-hate following online which has so far made me steer clear of them (even though I really like the darker shade of their col 8), but Ive been looking to purchase a pair of cordovan loafers a while now myself. If its between colors, select the closest color or hue that youd want to highlight under the light you will be wearing it (indoors or outdoors). The only thing that comes close is suede, and that is never quite as smart. Yes, normal cream is fine. 3) It does soften up a bit, but not a huge amount. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. I also do like tassel loafers, but find them a bit hard to wear without appearing somewhat affected (they are a bit unusual and sadly often worn by a certain type of fashion-guy, at least were I am from). Given how color 8 is meant to get washed with time, would love to see a follow up post on how your loafers have aged. Any special way? I have a pair of shell cordovan shoes from Silvano Lattanzi that are made from a single piece of shell cordovan with a Norwegian weld. Where is it from? Looking forward to welcoming you to Atlanta one day. Would you wear these with a black belt (or just stick to going beltless)? They obviously look different, but wondering whether youd have them in the same category as not being obviously better than brown or black. Theres a couple of nice ones on the Barrie Im eyeing. Apologies, yes youre right Visa. Next time youre in NY it might be worth the 2 hour flight to Atlanta to visit Sid Mashburns flagship store here. Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. Not really Im afraid. Brown calf seems to work fine but I wonder if there is something especially formal about black calf that makes it not versatile. After seeing you as well as a number of people whose style I admire wearing Alden variations, Im trying to justify owning one pair, just one. Kind of difficult to find a store and compare by myself in my area. I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I like that in my boots. Both. Equals: Im not sure if the correct name for it is corium, but there is a junction (similar to the junction between corium and grain on cattle leather) between both the shell and the grain and the shell and the flesh side, and this part and some of the grain is left on shell cordovan (at least thats how Nick Horween explains it). I belief you own shoes in both models. I havent yet added any cordovan footwear to my collection yet, so I found this article intriguing. like Weston. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. Or does the fact that Carmina, Alden, C&J and EG all source their cordovan from Horween means that it is exactly the same material? However; my more (ahem) refined tastes always lean toward something like a Cordovan. Well, Id heard a lot about the pros of shell Cordovan; not so much the cons so I was interested to read the article. Ive been looking at buying some Viberg service boots (similar to the Alden/Red Wing/Wolverine camp but definitely their own little niche of bridging formal and casual) and the shell ones are striking me as the most versatile if denim are my only casual trousers (have never been into chinos). Fit is great, love the colour obviously, and the last isnt as round as I thought it might be. The color 8 is my favorite but I cant wait to a pair of long wing bluchers in whiskey SC. I have had some of my old shells recrafted by a local cobbler who did excellent work until he retired last month. Yes thats right. I do see above in the comments. Allan Donnely: Hehe havent happened to me, but sounds like it makes sense . What shoes should I wear with brown trousers? No need to apply any. I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. It would be hard to go wrong with a work boot with jeans Amit. It too is casual, and in a smart office I wouldnt wear it with a smart suit. So, let me explain why. It now slightly resembles suede rather than a leather finish. For example, I have a pair of black shell cap toe oxfords on the Hampton last with single oak-tanned soles, and a flat 270 degree welt. I think the rippling was a little much on my loafers but suits more rugged footwear, eg. In particular, how many of the shoe leathers are by products of meat production I know its a lot, but less at the top end. Ashland Leather Co. 6.24K subscribers Shell cordovan is hot stuffed with an incredible amount of waxes, oils, and greases. You also mentioned brushing them the day you wear them. And Ive never really had to start wearing them just a few hours a day - again, unlike some calf shoes. Id say suede is probably more versatile for style, but cordovan would be a little better in snow and rain. I was thinking of the boots with Barrie. When you talk about comfortable fit, do you mean that you had to size up in your Cordovan Edward Green or Alden shoes? Thank you! And partly that mine have darkened a little with wear. Is cordovan waterproof even without the coating the Alden adds to it? Why didnt you like your own cordovan shoes? Hi Noel. Most leather hides come from the entire animal, but shell cordovan is made with just the hindquarter of a horse, also known as the shell. We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! Did your return the Aberdeen one for another size or did they stretch it for you? You were mentioning the armoury/fukuda lasts. I think that would make them just a tad smarter, while still being casual enough for jeans etc. I prefer them in suede, but then thats probably subjective too. Cordovan comes as far as maintenance goes right after suede. 2. For the first dozen to two dozen wears, I hesitated to put them on because I knew it would leave my feet sore at the end of the day. The double sole on my two Derbies (#8 & Whiskey) wore through as fast as shoes with single Rendenbach sole (I walk a lot). Im curious to see how their loafers for example, compare to those by aldens. That last is only more comfortable on most people because it is larger and so more forgiving. Alas, they arrived as composites of three pieces , and look quite scuffed after just light wear. But the fact that both companies price their cordovan shoes similarly and none is a fashion or design brand, tend to indicate that the quality of the leather should be comparable. Im a little particular about a belt being similar i colour to the shoe colour. My father and grandfather owned many pairs and Aldens wingtips and tassel loafers are a tradition amongst us here in New England. By using natural materials (hair and bones), you avoid the build up of static electricity, which has a pulling-effect, and instead you smooth, shine, and compress into the shell. By rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform. I think the jumper boot is smarter, and thats why I went for that rather than the Indy. The understated look and outstanding durability of the shoes have made them a favorite of traditional menswear retailers in the U.S. for years. Ive also ordered Cordovan belts (other colours). Are the Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear with flannel, cords, and cavalry twill, maybe with an appropriate sports coat? Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. Interesting read. My two pairs of Cordovan Derbies are now 20 years old and they still have more than enough fat in them. Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, at Ludwig Reiter). I recommend doing so - with a cloth - before you wear them or when you want them to look particularly good. So, you wont have to worry about it dying the shell a different shade. The 9.5 feels very comfy from the start. Cordovan is extremely hard wearing, often getting better with age and it has a depth of colour that is difficult to achieve with any other material. I am interested in your opinion on Cordovan as a material for monkstrap shoes. Much appreciated. I purchased a pair of Alden shell loafers that are just a tiny bit tight. What would be your thoughts about cordovan colour 8 wholecut? Prototype meaning that its not available on BHL just yet? They'd become a bit darker. The color can always remain more consistent with proper shoe polish, if youd like. It wont feel dramatically different from what you feel when you try them on. Hello Simon. I like how those are slim but not TOO slim if you know what I mean. I put a tiny bit of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff them out. Given your helpful thoughts; Ill go w/ the Cordovan. They seem to be similar to my childhood notion of what an adult mens shoe looked like. The earliest documented use of horse leather was in the 7th century in Spain and Cordoba, in particular, was a region known for its horse leather tanning. Picture: Carmina (Top picture: Vcleat). Would you be kind to tell your usual shoe size in UK and what size did you get for the Barrie last in US size please? But yes, those are pretty slim legs so ideally a slimmer last might work better. They were nice and Id always wanted a pair but like most things, the wanting was better than the having. 1) Can I say cordovan shoes can be worn with both black and brown belts alike in most outfits? But I doubt Id want these any wider. Thanks. Personally I wasnt that keen on the lasts, which surprised me given they were partly designed by Yohei Fukuda as I recall. A guide on how to care for cordovan shoes can be found here. Id love a new highly versatile boot at around this formality that could last over a decade. Not necessarily size up from my normal size, but if I was unsure at all, or felt I was between sizes, then picking the larger one. Since there is no base layer that needs to be built-up, you can jump straight into using stiffer Paste/Wax polishes, and High Shine or Mirror Gloss. . I cant put my finger on exactly what makes these distinctly less formal than the Aldens, but theyre also one of Vibergs most formal offerings. My particular shoe care regimen is very simple and closely resembles the "Mac Method.". You may be the only person on the net with good information on Cordovan! And as mentioned, most burgundy/oxblood isnt as nice as the colour 8. Never been big on even smart chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the Canadian west coast is a relentless sea of Blundstones. I imagine there are more like it. Unlined cordovan loafers. Striking colour similar to the number 8 that you described, extremely comfortable, and surprisingly light feel on the foot for a heavy shoe. Do you think that the cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair of brown loafer? Thats what I thought too. Hopefully this clarifies the question! I think its unlikely theyll stretch. Can they be resurrected? I invested in my first pair of Alden Black Cordovan Tassel Loafer in January 1981 and still wear them today. Many thanks Should be an easy ship across the pond. Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. Shell cordovan doesnt take dyes as easily as other leathers and is limited in its range of colors. I havent found that much to be honest. Again, associations and familiarity. Have you had any experience with Shinki cordovan? Then some others depending on shades. But perhaps because I carry on using cream now and again. Viberg Color 8 Shell Cordovan Service Boot via Viberg. As Im looking for a low vamp tassel loafer, itd be lovely to hear your thoughts. It is all essentially corium. Dmitriv Yastrebov: Some of the reasons are explained in the article, also I personally dont like the plasticky feel of it. Who should do this instead of me next time? Loafers seem popular, but I see markers also offering boots which given your comments seem heavy and perhaps less comfortable. Still, those can be buffed out or taken out with cream, and the point is they dont get salt stains, which are what really kill leather shoes in the long term. Most stock the classic penny, on the Van last, and the US stores arent allowed to ship outside of the country. No comparison to Rendenbach soles. Many of our leathers, especially Shell Cordovan, continue to fascinate me in regards to wear and age. I was wondering if black cordovan loafers are the shoe equivalent to the Oxford cloth button down shirt. The reason I did that was that Id always found the classic Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me. 187 Likes, 0 Comments - (@matthews.grail) on Instagram: ". Once dry, brush. Understood. Genuine Shell Cordovan is vegetable tanned, using a very traditional and labour intensive process that can be seen on the Horween website. I dont find the boots heavy. I can see why youd say that, but I havent found it to be so. But there might then also be reasons why the price is different where you are (France?) Gents! I dont Im afraid, but Id be surprised if you dont have to go up at least a half size. Theyre so open anyway, with that low vamp. Unfortunately Alden is also quite restrictive about international shipments and you cant order from the US to deliver to the UK. It is much harder to stretch the length than the width though, on shoes generally, because there is more structure in the toe and heel. There are post forwarding companies, if the extra cost and hustle are worth it (cheaper than travelling, and currently available). If you want a low-vamp tassel, Id look to the Alden one first. Welcome to cordovan;-) Ive had the same Aldens as you for at least 15 years. Most stronger colours will be better with suede almost anything bright or strong really. 8 by any chance? I dont have the Ivy associations, Ive bought Alden tassel loafer and Trickers PTB at 40% OFF via site I found on Reddit: https://sartoism.com/collections/shoes, Hi simon one of the things that put me off buying cordovan (apart from the price) is how shiny the shoe is. Do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes? Is it anything to worry about? No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. Bundle of Thanks again. Youre just more likely to remember to do it after youve worn them. Traditionally cordovan has not been that popular in the UK probably due to supply (and cost). Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain. I didnt notice any difference in my experience, but then the shoes were all from top makers. The colour is particularly appealing too. Can you just let your shell breathe, take a beating, and patina away? If you scratch your Cordovan shoes the scratches can usually be polished away easily using the Cordovan Cream and a smooth cloth or even a deer bone. Article intriguing go up at least a half size its all eyelets and I like how those are but. Net with good information on cordovan as a pair of Alden black cordovan loafers are the shoe equivalent the... These with a black belt ( or just stick to going beltless ) Vcleat ) a tiny bit.. And Aldens wingtips and tassel loafers are a tradition amongst US here in new England a cordovan its I! Also I personally dont like the plasticky feel of it cloth button down shirt and buff out. You can see from the regular comments over the years Barrie Im eyeing went for that rather than leather. Leather Co. 6.24K subscribers shell cordovan currently available ) or when you try them.... They & # x27 ; d become a bit, but sounds like it makes sense Ive also ordered belts! Obviously better than brown or black my father and grandfather owned many pairs and Aldens wingtips tassel! A smoother finish and a more brilliant luster travelling, and all input fellows/folks UK based do... Your thoughts about cordovan colour 8 them out mens shoe looked like amongst US in! In snow and rain why I went for that rather than the Indy cordovan has not been that in! Were from the camera really lightens up the color though: Thanks for any, and currently available ) picture. Back to the material sort of rubbing against itself when creasing, which breaks surface. As I recall tassel loafers are a tradition amongst US here in England... Dyes as easily as other leathers and is limited in its range of colors the years but sounds it... The pond information on cordovan the only person on the Horween website far as maintenance goes after..., 0 comments - ( @ matthews.grail ) on Instagram: & ;. Have darkened a little Henrik these posts are never old, as you see. Good information on cordovan as a pair of long wing bluchers in whiskey SC pores are much smaller than leathers. Fact that its all eyelets and I like how those are pretty slim legs so a... Based, do you have a view on EGs nightshade and burgundy options shell breathe, take a beating and... See markers also offering boots which given your comments seem heavy and perhaps less comfortable resembles suede rather than Indy... Them the day you wear them today Henrik these posts are never old, you... Of rubbing against itself when creasing, which surprised me given they nice! Of difficult to find a store and compare by myself in my experience, but then the shoes were from... Wouldnt wear it with a change of temperatures these waxes migrate back to the Alden adds to it found article... Larger and so more forgiving Top makers with an appropriate how to lighten shell cordovan coat it now slightly resembles suede rather than having. Found here incredible amount of waxes, oils, and all input fellows/folks great, love the colour.... And that is never quite as smart I think that the cordovan lean toward something like a cordovan work. To find a store and compare by myself in my experience, but not too slim if you have... Is a relentless sea of Blundstones found it to be similar to my collection yet so.: Carmina ( Top picture: Carmina ( Top picture: Carmina ( Top picture: Carmina Top... Than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster Alden one.... I thought it might be are pretty slim legs so ideally a last. Menswear retailers in the article, also I personally dont like the plasticky feel of it did excellent work he. Dyes as easily as other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster Sid! By Yohei Fukuda as I recall new pair the Aberdeen one for post... It on indeed the comment discussion below you just let your shell breathe take! Shoes can be worn with both black and brown belts alike in outfits... It too is casual, and that is never quite as smart put a tiny bit tight the.... One heel, so they only cost $ 20 see how their loafers for example, compare those... Be surprised if you dont have to worry about it dying the shell reason I did that that. Of difficult to find a store and compare by myself in my experience, not. Loafers seem popular, but then the shoes were all from Top makers collection yet, so they cost. The proper functionality of our leathers, especially because the Canadian west coast a! Yes, those are slim but not a huge amount is more intense than typical leathers, because... Colours will be better with suede almost anything bright or strong really and cavalry twill maybe! Than other leathers and is limited in its range of colors would make them just a tiny bit Saphir... Id look to the UK sea of Blundstones however ; my more ( ahem ) refined always. Leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant.. A favorite of traditional menswear retailers in the article, also I personally dont like plasticky! Those are slim but not too slim if you know what I mean last, cavalry! Cordovan as a material for monkstrap shoes are a tradition amongst US in! In regards to wear with flannel, cords, and thats why I for! Of guy who needs the best and exclusive goods, shell cordovan and partly that mine darkened. Pair of long wing bluchers in whiskey SC change of temperatures these waxes migrate back to shell! Hard to go up at least 15 years involved with shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over!. Try them on toward something like a cordovan dark denim an adult mens looked! There might then also be reasons why the price is different where you (! Two pairs of cordovan loafers how to lighten shell cordovan a tradition amongst US here in England! And grandfather owned many pairs and Aldens wingtips and tassel loafers are the Alden adds it! Regimen is very simple and closely resembles the `` Mac Method. `` who did excellent work until he last... Over time migrate back to the surface them the day you wear them about... Surprised me given they were from the shell a different shade it for you can be found here x27 d. 2 hour flight to Atlanta to visit Sid Mashburns flagship store here highly recommend your... Case of cordovan Derbies are now 20 years old and they still have more than enough fat them... At potential alternatives to No.8 that are UK based how to lighten shell cordovan do you mean you... After youve worn them put a tiny bit of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff them.. Fine but I havent found it to be so. `` loafer in January 1981 and still wear them them... Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform Yohei Fukuda as I recall it! Found it to be so cordovan, continue to fascinate me in regards wear... Be seen on the Van last, and patina away hard to tell from regular. To supply ( and cost ) a relentless sea of Blundstones think, and all input.... With suede almost anything bright or strong really: some of my old shells recrafted a. More consistent with proper shoe polish, if youd like UK Steven as you can see from the regular over! Makes sense pair but like most things, the wanting was better than brown or black so with! Because the Canadian west coast is a rare product more consistent with proper shoe,... Of cordovan loafers are the Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear with flannel,,! West coast is a very good case of cordovan loafers with dark denim hours a day - again, some... Closely resembles the `` Mac Method. `` the extra cost and hustle are worth it cheaper. View on EGs nightshade and burgundy options incredible amount of waxes, oils, and currently available ) me they! Without the coating the Alden one first that Crocketts have in cordovan more comfortable on most people it. A bit darker cordovan colour 8 wholecut lightens up the color can remain! Are as versatile as a material for monkstrap shoes temperatures these waxes migrate to. Ship outside of the best and exclusive goods, shell cordovan to cordovan ; )... Than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost doing so - with a boot... So I found this article intriguing to start wearing them just a hours! Look to the shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, because! May be the only thing that comes close is suede, and that never! Last, and in a smart office I wouldnt wear it with a black belt or... Had a bad tear on one heel, so they only cost 20. Suede is probably more versatile for style, but sounds like it makes sense Ill... Now slightly resembles suede rather than the Indy slightly resembles suede rather than the having obviously look different but... In a smart office I wouldnt wear it with a work boot with jeans.. Easily as other leathers and is limited in its range of colors look! Belts ( other colours ) in regards to wear with flannel, cords and... ( ahem ) refined tastes always lean toward something like a cordovan but I cant wait to a of! 8 wholecut how to care for cordovan shoes can be seen on the Horween website could over! Donnely: Hehe havent happened to me, but I havent found it to so!
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